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Food

Fran Costigan

By Colleen Holland

From baking boot camp to the perfect cupcake recipe, the queen of vegan baking is ready to share her pastry secrets with the world.

Fran Costigan knows a thing or two about chocolate. She can tell you the best leavener for the perfect vegan torte, or a replacement for eggs that will transform your dairy-free mousse. After eschewing butter, cream, and eggs for vegan versions in the ‘80s, Costigan has shaped the art of vegan baking like no other. In fact, many say that Costigan is the country's first-ever vegan pastry chef, and her flawless cakes, cookies, and tarts will make you a believer. Now leading an always-sold-out vegan baking boot camp in New York City, Costigan is teaching students from around the world how to make perfect vegan pastry.

VegNews: How did you become a vegan baker?
Fran Costigan: After completing the professional program at New York Restaurant School, I was hired as a pastry chef at a high-end New York City café to make all the desserts and baked goods. My desserts were popular and my work was interesting, but I didn't feel well. I had to stop working to try to deal with my exhaustion, moods swings, and general malaise. During my time out, I read Annemarie Colbin's Food and Healing and had my first "aha, it's the food" moment. I became a whole-foods vegan overnight, shunning all sweets, and felt great virtually immediately.

VN: Shunning all sweets? We can't imagine Fran Costigan saying those words. How did you parlay your new lifestyle back into your passion for baking?
FC: I know! Well, not long after my epiphany, I remembered that sweet treats are celebratory and an important part of a balanced life. I investigated the vegan desserts on the market, and they were mediocre to awful. The last straw for me was when my mainstream colleagues decided that vegan and the pastry arts were antithetical, so I hit the stores for ingredients and sequestered myself in my kitchen. While I was madly testing, I enrolled in the Natural Gourmet Institute Chef's Training Program and worked as a pastry chef in a vegetarian restaurant. When I perfected my first chocolate cake, I knew I had cracked the code!

VN: What is your favorite dessert to prepare?
FC: That's like asking me to pick my favorite child! But when I am in the mood for true dessert artistry, I make my L'Opera cake. My version is true to the French original: four layers of almond genoise cake, two cream fillings, two icings, coffee syrup, chocolate designs, and gold dusted nuts.

VN: Tell us what one will experience in baking boot camp.
FC: It's a five-day, eight-hours-per-day intensive program that will give you the tools and confidence to make excellent, reliable vegan desserts. This course is on par with other professional pastry course intensives—it just happens to be vegan. Students learn how to work with quality ingredients integral to vegan baking and how to bake categories of desserts using the proper technique. We practice plating every night, and finish up the class with a dessert buffet party.

VN: When you want a terrific vegan dessert and don't want to make it at home, where do you go?
FC: I adore Lula's Sweet Apothecary for sundaes or a vegan macaroon by Sweet & Sara. And the cannoli at Candle 79—don't get me started! For a raw dessert, I hit Pure Food and Wine, and I love the atmosphere at the new all-vegan chocolatier, Cocoa V.

Click here for Fran's Very Vanilla Cupcakes
Click here for Fran's Chocolate Ganache Glaze

21 Comments

Posted: May 18 2010 08:04AM By Marla Rose

We are lucky to have such an amazing vegan baking pioneer like Fran. Her Great Good Desserts book has helped to convince many of my omni friends that you don't give up flavor and taste as a vegan. Thank you, VegNews, for spotlighting a true vegan goddess.

Posted: May 18 2010 08:57AM By Gail D

Fran is the goddess of vegan pastry. Her chocolate ganache alone has taken vegan baking to culinary heights. Students of her boot camp will no doubt leave armed to stifle the myth that cruelty-free treats aren't every bit as sweetly satisfying as any other.

Posted: May 18 2010 09:07AM By fran Costigan

Dear Colleen and talented staff at VegNews, my fav read for years! I want to thank you for this wonderful feature. It's a pleasure to see my 'true self' represented in print - or online in this case! What a cool way for my new haircut to go live - in VegNews Style! Thank you for all you do to promote a healthy, contemporary lifestyle. You show us how we can have it all.

Posted: May 18 2010 09:37AM By Betsy Carson

Wow! My birhthday's in September and I want that L'Opera cake.

Posted: May 18 2010 09:41AM By Joey L

I am a former student of Fran's baking boot camp. It was a fantastic experience. Such a learning experience and a lot of fun too. Her desserts are amazing! If you have an opportunity to take one of her classes, do it! She has awakened the wanna-be pasrty chef in me!

Posted: May 18 2010 14:08PM By Allison Rivers Samson

Thank you Colleen and VN and thank you, FRAN! We love you!!! Smooches. I am so coming to your bootcamp one of these days!

Posted: May 18 2010 14:53PM By Sweet & Sara

We LOVE LOVE LOVE Fran!!!! Still need my cookbook signed.

Posted: May 18 2010 15:24PM By Mimi Clark

Fran has been a popular guest chef in my vegan cooking classes in VA on several occasions. Her Retro Desserts class with Twinkies, Hostess Cupcakes, and Devil Dogs, is a blast from the past! Fran's book, Great Good Dairy-Free Desserts Naturally, is a primer for vegan bakers. Love the new "do!"

Posted: May 18 2010 15:31PM By Fran Costigan

Hi Mimi Thank you for your kind comment. I loved guesting at your wonderful school. You are first to pick up on the new 'do'! It was brand new in fact when the pic was taken! Cheers!

Posted: May 18 2010 15:33PM By fran Costigan

OMGoddesses all, you know who you are! Aren't we vegan bakers just the luckiest!!!!

Posted: May 18 2010 21:18PM By Caroline Ishii

Thanks for writing a great article about Fran, who is really the queen of pastry in general, and it happens to be vegan and made with whole foods. She can compete with the best pastry chefs in the country hands down. Her passion and commitment to teaching countless of students, I am one of them, is remarkable and I'm glad that you have given her the recognition that she so deserves. The world needs more Frans! Caroline Ishii, ZenKitchen

Posted: May 19 2010 08:30AM By Steph

How cool! I can't wait to learn more vegan secrets!

Posted: May 20 2010 13:12PM By Alex

I agree with Caroline...we need more Frans!!! She's a unique talent and an amazing teacher. Thank you for sharing your art with me and with all the people you give your decadent desserts to enjoy!

Posted: May 20 2010 13:26PM By Melisser

Fran is one wonderful lady! I've had the pleasure of spending time with her, and she's a joy to be around!

Posted: May 20 2010 20:13PM By Fran Costigan

How I am loving this love fest. Thank you all for your love! I am so blessed. I need a Cupcake w. Ganache to calm me down! Fran

Posted: May 24 2010 13:30PM By Mary Doyle

Fran truly is the queen of vegan baking! I attended several of Fran's classes including her Vegan Baking Boot Camp - What an AMAZING week. She is very generous and willing to share her vast knowledge. Her recipes really are the best out there. 'More Great Good Dairy Free Desserts Naturally' is the best baking book I own...and I have a lot!

Posted: May 24 2010 18:29PM By siue

I love Fran! She really inspired me to write my dessert book 8 years ago. She is the Queen of tasty AND healthy!

Posted: May 26 2010 05:21AM By Victoria F Salom

Fran is a creative and innovative chef and a truly inspiring instructor. I recommend her classes to anyone who wants to learn about vegan pastry! And her recipes are just perfect.

Posted: May 26 2010 14:11PM By Amie

Is there a way to find out when the next Vegan Baking Boot Camp is? I know there is one next week, but I am out of state and would like to start planning to fly out for the next one. Thanks in advance!

Posted: May 26 2010 19:29PM By Fran Costigan

Hey all, feel free to email me. Go to my website www.francostigan.com, and link to my email address. Kisses to ya'll! Amie; The June Boot has been sold out for some time. Space is limited so registering early is recommended. The next Boot, although not yet in NG Schedule nor on my site is Feb 17-21, 2011. You can call NGI and ask for Liz to register. Or go to my website, find my email and send me a smesage!

Posted: Aug 11 2010 11:04AM By Louie b.Free

I ADORE Fran,The Desertrix !!!! Her recipes are AMAZING. Louie b. and, I LOVE having her on-air w/me

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